Champagne may still be the world's most highly prized bubbly, but by the rules it can only come from the region of the same name in France, and these days quality sparkling wines are produced all over the world.
Italian sparklers are some of my favorites. The region of Piemonte, in northwestern Italy, is famous for its Muscat-based sparkling wines. The most familiar had once been Asti Spumante, but producers became wary of a bargain-basement connotation that the term "spumante" began to carry. The wines now bear the simple designation " Asti". Relatively low in alcohol and frothy, rather than bubbly, Asti can be perfectly delightful at informal occasions or as a dessert wine. A superior Muscat wine from the same region is the varietally labeled Moscato d'Asti. Only slightly spritzy, Moscato d'Asti doesn't require the wire cap of its spumante cousin.
One of the most charming of all Italian sparkling wines is Prosecco, which is made in the Veneto region just north of Venice. The Prosecco grape has a slightly bitter finish, which marries nicely with the sweetness of peach or apricot nectar to make the delightful cocktail known as the Bellini.
Surprisingly, in Spain sparkling wine is as much a fixture of everyday life as flamenco and bullfighting. The Spanish answer to Champagne is Cava, which is made using the same technique, but based on the Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Parellada, and Chardonnay grape varieties. The Penedès area, south of Barcelona, is where 95 percent of all Cava is produced, but throughout the country producers use the name. Spaniards drink their Cava throughout a meal, not just as an aperitif. The largest producers are Freixenet and Codorníu, both of which offer several different Cavas in the world market at very reasonable prices.
In the Southern Hemisphere, sparkling wine is perfect for the holiday season, which comes in the middle of summer. Australian sparkling, both vintage and nonvintage, offer great bang for the buck. The Aussies also make a red sparkling wine from Shiraz, but I find it must be an acquired taste. Thus far, New Zealand has concentrated its efforts on still versions of Sauvignon Blanc, a grape that does not translate well into sparkling wine. South African exports, however, should become more widely available in the Asia as South African wines catch on. The local méthode classique or cap classique wines are the Cape's equivalent of méthode champenoise.
Before leaving the Southern Hemisphere, we can't overlook Argentina. The Argentines love to entertain, and sparkling wines are an essential component in their vivacious lifestyle. Chandon (the French company that makes Dom Pérignon) has been making bubbly in Argentina's Mendoza region for decades.
Meanwhile, in the United States, sparkling wines keep getting better. There are excellent wines being made from New York to Washington State. The Pacific Northwest's superb grape-growing climate results in top-notch sparkling, but California, of course, still leads the pack in terms of quantity and quality. Many of California's appellations produce fine bubblies, but some of my favorites tend to come from Sonoma and Napa's southerly Carneros district, where breezes from San Francisco Bay cool the grapes.
Champagne is still the king of the hill when it comes to sparkling wine. Contrary to popular belief, however, you don't have to spend an arm and a leg for true Champagne. Look for bottles from some of Champagne's lesser-known houses, or for non vintage sparkling from the big names. Rosé Champagnes are among the most celebratory wines of all and are ideal for any Asian cuisine.
If you want to try a non-Champagne French sparkling wine, look for bottles from the Loire Valley's Saumur appellation. These deliciously quaffable vins mousseux are made primarily from the Chenin Blanc grape. Crémant de Limoux is a French sparkling wine made in the Languedoc and containing the local Mauzac grape.
By the way, do not be misled by non-French producers who label their wines "champagne." Unfortunately, the old-fashioned habit of referring to all sparkling wine as champagne is still practiced by some producers especially in the U.S., but today's consumers should be savvy enough to know that true champagne is a French product.
No matter where it's bottled, sparkling wine is meant for celebration, but don't just wait for that special occasion, by simply opening a bottle will provide an occasion to justify drinking it.
