The Lord of the Rings, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc: These are just three reasons New Zealand has become such a fashionable destination. Here's a guide to the country's best.
A Brief History of New Zealand Wine
It's hard to reconcile New Zealand's present with its past, at least where wines are concerned. This beautiful country, which now turns out tangy Sauvignon Blancs, perfumed Pinot Noirs and stylish Chardonnays, was until quite recently known mainly for vegetal-tasting and semisweet wines. Some were made from unremarkable grape varieties like Müller-Thurgau, others from hybrids with such catchy names as Seibel 5455.
New Zealand's first vines were planted in 1819 and its first wine made around 1840--by an Englishman, J. R. Busby. The years that followed were marked by bad luck and bad choices. The vine louse phylloxera that rampaged through France arrived in New Zealand at the end of the nineteenth century and destroyed many vineyards. In 1910, a strong temperance movement took hold, which drove winemakers to plant cheap grape varieties that could be harvested as table grapes if necessary. Finally, in the 1960s, growers began planting vinifera varieties like Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay in lieu of ignoble labruscas like Isabella and Alphonse Lavallée. Winemakers gradually identified specific regions as most suitable for specific grapes, such as Gisborne and Hawkes Bay on the east coast of the North Island. In 1973, the first vine was planted in what would become New Zealand's most famous wine region, Marlborough, on the northern tip of South Island. Marlborough went on to produce New Zealand's first internationally acclaimed wine, Cloudy Bay. The groundbreaking 1985 vintage not only alerted other New Zealand winemakers to the region's potential but announced to the rest of the world what was possible in "the land of the long white cloud."
Sauvignon Blanc: The National Grape
Sauvignon Blanc is a strange grape. Long suspected of being a distant and poor cousin of Cabernet Sauvignon, it rose enormously in status in 1997 when it was proven not only to be related to Cabernet but, in fact, its parent. The variety is as recognizable in the vineyard as it is in the glass. The name Sauvignon suggests the French sauvage (wild), and the vines are. They grow like weeds, and the shoots are brittle. (This makes Sauvignon particularly vulnerable to wind damage.) The grape is not as adaptable as the ubiquitous Chardonnay, and its flavors change so quickly that a couple of hours' delay at the time of picking can make the difference between a wine of finesse and one of flab.
New Zealand Sauvignon bears only a passing resemblance to its Loire-based French counterparts; there's less of the famous gunflint flavor you'll find in a good Sancerre and more gooseberry, lime, lychee and tropical fruit. And aromas of cut grass and hay are even more pronounced in a New Zealand Sauvignon than they are in almost any other version. New Zealand Sauvignons are produced in a range of styles, from rounded and wood-matured to gently oak-spiced to zingy. But however they're made, they're unlike any other wine on the planet--and that's the appeal.
Wine Producers to Watch
Montana Established in 1944, Montana dominates New Zealand wine production, owning properties in the country's three major wine regions and accounting for half the country's grape crush. Its Montana Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is classic, bright and crisp;
Dog Point Dog Point is a gilt edge investment for anyone with an eye on wine quality. It's a partnership between two very talented people, James Healy, ex winemaker foe Cloudy Bay, one of the brightest and most creative winemakers around. Ivan Sutherland was one of Marlborough's earliest vineyard owners and was Cloudy Bay's chief viticulturist for many years, supplying it with much of the production from his extensive vineyard holdings. After just a couple of vintages, Healy and Sutherland have already shown they can make world class Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Te Mata Every wine region needs an energetic someone to put it on the map, and in Hawkes Bay that someone is John Buck of Te Mata. He's proven that New Zealand can turn out top-quality reds, particularly Cabernet blends. Te Mata's single-vineyard Bordeaux blends, Awatea and Coleraine, are definitely worth seeking out, with their rich black-currant fruit and cedary tannins.
Palliser Estate Martinborough is New Zealand's top Pinot Noir region, and Palliser Estate one of its leading producers. Its Pinots are powerful, rich and spicy, redolent of raspberry and coffee, with a finish that lasts and lasts.
Escarpment Vineyard Larry McKenna has, as they say, got form. He was the driving force behind the rapid development of New Zealand Pinot Noir during the 90's. In 2003, McKenna was able to let his obsession run loose and make the first wine from his own vineyard. I expected the best and that is exactly what he delivered.
Kumeu River Run by Michael Brajkovich, New Zealand's first Master of Wine, Kumeu River's Chardonnay is remarkable for its complexity and unique style. Their Chardonnays is, in a word, incredible, with rich flavors of honey, oatmeal and nuts, and heady aromas of ripe fig and grapefruit.
Central Otago There are simply too many new Central Otago vineyards with exciting potential to list all of them here. Valli Vineyards, Olssens, Pisa Range estate, Two Paddocks, Mt Difficulty and Peregrine Wines are just a few of the established producers that have shown form. As good as Central Otago Pinot is right now, we ain't seen nothing yet!
